Quilting Pricing and Important Information

Quilting is completed with our Gammill Statler Computer Guided Machine
Computer Guided Quilting results in precise stitching and designs

  • Basting - $0.005 /sq inch –$30.00 Minimum - This service is for those who want to hand quilt and this stabilizes the layers of the quilt for future hand quilting.

  • Edge to Edge Designs- $50.oo Minimum - $.025 to $.03 per square inch ($.025 is usually a simple meander or simple design)

    • A continuous design from edge to edge of the quilt. Price is determined by the density of the quilting design.

  • Overall Continuous Design with one or more borders set off, thread color changes- $.035 to $.04 per square inch

  • Custom Quilting with specific placement of patterns in blocks, borders, sashings and triangles, thread color changes- $.045 to $.08 per square inch

  • Hand Binding at our discretion (virtually invisible/very labor intensive - $0.40/linear inch –$60.00 Minimum - This service is for those want us to sew on the trim, no machine. You need to provide the trim strips cut appropriatly. Call us for instructions. An additional wait is usually required for the many extra hours involved.

  • Miscellaneous

    • Seaming the backing - $15.00 per seam
      Squaring the finished quilt for binding - $15.00
      Pressing the quilt top - $15.00
      Prep for round or odd shaped edges - $15.00

Thread We Use:

We use King Tut, So Fine! and Signature Quilting Thread Exclusively.
We charge $6.00 to $10.00 for thread per quilt depending on our cost of thread for the quilting being done.
They are made for high speed, multi-directional machine quilting.
King Tut Quilting Thread is 100% EXTRA-Long Staple (ELS) Egyptian Cotton.
Signature 100% mercerized cotton thread is made from 100% long staple cotton, it is 3 ply, ct 42 thread, with a tex rating of 40.
So Fine! is lint-free, continuous fiber, smooth polyester thread
made for high speed longarm quilting machines.

Top Preparation:

  1. Clip any loose threads. Stray threads will show through lighter fabrics and they can cause snags and uneven stitching. It's a good idea to stay-stitch about one-fourth inch around your top to stabilize the edges, especially if you have pieced edges. Check for loose seams.

  2. Label the quilt top and back top if necessary with a note paper marked "TOP" and secure the note with a safety pin to keep it attached to the fabric.

  3. Fabric with a lot of paint on it (rather than dye) may cause problems during quilting because the paint "grabs" the needle and can cause drag or needle breakage or possibly tearing your quilt.

  4. If your top arrives and it needs pressing before it can be loaded and quilted, I will charge an additional $10 to press. Pressing during every stage of construction should make any additional pressing minimal if needed at all. (Small creases from mailing will be taken care of no charge.)

  5. Save any embellishments such as buttons and bows until after the quilt has been quilted. These are almost impossible to quilt around safely and can damage your quilt and/or my machine.

Backing Information:

  1. All quilt backing and batting should be squared up and pressed, and need to be at least 6" wider and 6" longer than the quilt top.

  2. No bed sheets for backing. The fabric is too dense, and in turn it prevents needle penetration causing skipped stitches and thread breaks.

  3. Label the quilt top and back top if necessary with a note paper marked "TOP" and secure the note with a safety pin to keep it attached to the fabric.

  4. You might want to consider choosing a backing that will blend with the color of the top thread. I prefer to use the same color in both the top and bobbin thread, as some thread will show through if two very different colors are used.

  5. If seaming backing, please leave the selvages on the top and bottom as it provides a more stable surface to pin to the leaders.

  6. If you are piecing the backing and have a choice, run seams horizontally and not vertically. This rolls onto the machine horizontally instead of vertically which prevents unnecessary stretching and puckering. Pieced backs are fine, but keep in mind that it's very difficult to center a back on a longarm machine, and I can't guarantee that it will be exact.


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